Diana C. Kirby, Author at Diana's Designs Austin

About Diana C. Kirby

Diana Kirby is a lifelong gardener and longtime Austinite, who loves the Central Texas climate for the almost year-round opportunities it offers for active gardening and seasonal splendor. Known as an impassioned and successful gardener, Diana began by helping friends design and implement their landscapes. Soon, she was contracted as a professional designer by a popular local landscaping installation firm, where she designed landscapes for residential and commercial clients for several years. In 2007, her new passion blossomed with the launch of her own firm, Diana’s Designs. ... Diana is a member of the Association of Professional Landscape Designers, the Garden Writers Association of America, and she writes a monthly gardening column for the Austin American-Statesman. Diana teaches the Landscape Design classes for several county Texas Agrilife Extension Service Master Gardener certification programs and speaks about gardening and design for garden centers and other groups. Learn more about presentation topics, availability and speaking fees.

New pup already helping me garden…

We lost our sweet boy, Tanner, to cancer in November.

We adopted him from the Humane Society on my birthday, when he was just 8 weeks old.

Soft, cuddly and adorable, he stole our hearts.

He would have been 12 on New Year’s Day.

He was a great dog and my sweet boy. He was funny and willful and full of love. He followed me everywhere. And even at almost 12 years old, you could still bend down to his soft, fuzzy head and get a whiff of that sweet puppy smell that he never lost.

He was my Tan-man, Bubbie, Scooby, Bubs, Nudge, and Mr. Man-Man.

I had to wait this long to write this post, and it’s still making me cry with every word. He deserves a loving tribute.

I know he is lying in the sunshine, chasing squirrels, and taking long naps in doggie heaven with Sierra and Sami, and waiting for us all.

I’m not sure I will ever stop missing him.

While Dakota was enjoying being the only dog and getting lots of extra lovin’ to help me ease the hole in my heart, she didn’t want to go outside, she had no one to follow around and she seemed lonely. Happily lonely, according to my dear husband, but too solitary. (A little too much time spent in her bed!)

So, I set about looking for a friend for Dakota and another pup for which to be a forever family. After a lot of looking, Fletcher found his way into our hearts and our home. He’d been returned to a shelter by his adopted family when he was injured. (Sadly, weeks after not treating his injury) His foster family raved about him and here he is.

He’s housebroken, sits on command and has learned to play fetch and drop the ball in just a week. He’s also learned to go lie in his bed when I tell him to go away in the middle of the night. He’s a smart boy and a fast learner. (But, he’s still a puppy. I’d clearly forgotten how much work that is! I haven’t had to train a puppy since Sierra about 9-10 years ago.)

Fletcher loves to play, and despite the fact that Dakota (8) didn’t play much with Tanner because of his age, she does love to play and run (fly & leap) around the yard like a kid. She’s still a little put out at times, she gets jealous and wants to make sure she’s getting her fair share of lovin’. And she takes her responsibility as the older, alpha dog seriously. (Tanner was the alpha before.) She tells Fletcher when he’s annoying her and when he’s gotten too close. And, sadly, she’s already shown him her favorite places to dig up bulbs … sigh.

And, they play. They follow each other all around, checking out noises and people going by out front, romping around the yard, jumping and wrestling with each other. They enjoy each other. Even when they are both barking, growling, and howling at each other, those tails are wagging and they are having fun. He’s good for her. I knew he would be.

Even though I still have part of that hole in my heart, it’s good to share all that love with another homeless animal.

It’s what Tanner would have wanted.

Rest in peace, my sweet bubbie-boy.

By Diana C. Kirby|2016-04-14T02:40:02-05:00January 13th, 2012|Blog, Dakota, digging, dogs, Fletcher, puppy, Sharing Nature's Garden, Tanner|0 Comments

Broccoli brings back blogging…

After my holiday hiatus from blogging, reading blogs and pretty much anything that didn’t have to do with a kid birthday, Thanksgiving & travel, a holiday party for 160 for which I cook, company for New Year’s, and another kid birthday, I’m baaaaaack!

And this broccoli brought me back. This pretty, fresh and delicious green goddess adorned our dinner plates last night. Only a few of the winter veggies I planted actually survived our fall attack of the critters. Specifically, 2 broccoli plants, 1 green cabbage, 1 red cabbage and 1 cauliflower. The broccoli was the first to ripen.

I know sometimes there isn’t a lot of difference in the flavor of a few of the home grown vegetables and those you buy. But for some veggies, it’s a world of difference — like tomatoes, or last night’s broccoli.

And that was it. All gone. Makes me mad at the critters all over again.

But it sure was tasty.

And it makes me want to plant some more winter veggies this week…and blog about it!

By Diana C. Kirby|2017-11-29T23:27:19-06:00January 9th, 2012|Blog, broccoli, hiatus, holiday, Sharing Nature's Garden, vegetable garden, vegetables, veggies, winter vegetables|0 Comments

Austin’s temperate climate yields year-round vegetables

It’s hard to believe that we can still plant a last round of winter vegetables right now.

But instead of protecting our vegetables from freezes like we would in a ‘normal’ winter, we might be shading them from the hot sun. While vegetables like chard, baby beets or newly sown carrots can be susceptible to a strong frost; lettuce and sweet peas can wilt or bolt with too much heat.

The unseasonably warm weather we’ve been having has confused both plants and people alike.

But then, that’s what gardening is all about, isn’t it?

Second-guessing Mother Nature.

For the next few weeks, (we assume that winter will eventually make another appearance) there is a window of planting time left for some more wonderful winter vegetables.

Now is the time to plant seeds and transplants of these vegetables:

Onion sets (the width of a pencil or smaller)
Shallots
Cabbage transplants
Cauliflower transplants
Turnips
Broccoli transplants
Swiss chard
Collard transplants
Beets
Spinach
Lettuce
Potatoes
Asparagus crowns
Kale transplants
Leek transplants
Radishes
Cool season English peas

In addition to late winter vegetables, now is also a good time to plant strawberries, bare-root fruit trees, berries and grapes. For more specific information on planting fruits and berries, check with your local independent nursery.

Now is also prime time to plant cool-season herbs like chives, cilantro, parsley, dill and fennel. Watch for cold weather, though, dill and fennel will need to be covered if it freezes.

To succeed with your vegetable planting there are different strategies for growing different kinds of seeds. Seed packets have specific information for planting – be sure to follow the directions for how deep and how far apart to plant the seeds. But there are some other planting and growing tips you might not find on the back of the envelope.

Lettuce and spinach seeds should be planted gently and should not be planted deeply. They need light to germinate, so sprinkle them and keep them misted daily until they sprout. Soak beans, peas and carrots overnight to help them get started. This helps speed up the growing process

On particularly warm days, consider setting up a little shade cloth to help keep your lettuce and greens from bolting. If you don’t have shade cloth, something as simple as an umbrella set on its side can help give them some cover from the warm afternoon sun. And be sure to keep the lettuce seeds moist during the approximately 10-day germination period.

English peas will need a trellis to climb. If planted now, peas should produce by early March.

With our clay and caliche soils, it’s best to loosen the soil to about a foot deep before planting carrot seeds. The seeds should only be planted about 1/8 to ¼ inch deep, but this will prevent you from harvesting stunted or deformed carrots because they couldn’t force their way down through the hard soil.

Beets produce seed clusters that contain several seeds rather than seeds that produce one plant. When the seedlings come up, thin them to one plant per group for the largest beets. You can also eat the micro greens that you thinned out.

Once any seedlings appear, you do have to thin them out. I know, they’ve come up, they’re alive, why not leave them all there to grow? It’s more to eat, right? Well, no. (It’s painful for me to thin, too. Live plants are, after all, live plants.) But, if you thin them out, you give the remaining seedlings room to grow more vigorously and you don’t crowd their roots or make them fight for water or nutrients.

For many plants, like lettuce, broccoli and cabbage, stagger your planting time by putting in a few plants each week for the next 3 weeks so your vegetables aren’t all ready to eat at once.

While we enjoyed a little rain to end 2011, it’s been dry again since the first of the year. Climatologists are continuing to forecast to warmer and drier than average weather into the summer, so don’t forget to water your vegetable garden regularly to keep tender new plants growing and strong.

Growing your own vegetables is fun and rewarding. There is something energizing about being outside in the sunshine, harvesting your vegetables and then enjoying a fresh, tasty dinner. And luckily, Central Texas gardeners can enjoy the pleasures of vegetable gardening year round.

By Diana C. Kirby|2017-11-29T23:27:19-06:00January 2nd, 2012|Articles|0 Comments

Try a few houseplants to bring the outdoors inside

You won’t find local gardeners complaining about the recent rainy spell. Every drop is a welcome relief after what may well have been the driest summer on record.

What surprises me at this time of year is how quickly I find myself missing the sun and the sea of green and color in my garden. Cloudy, gray days make me long for happy, healthy plants.

So, I surround myself with houseplants. Not only do indoor plants brighten up a room, they absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen, helping to clean the air.

All houseplants need three basic elements to thrive – light, water and nutrients.

Light

Plants depend on sunlight for photosynthesis. Because the specific needs for each plant will vary, it’s important to survey your indoor space to evaluate the amount of light available where you’d like to add plants. Make sure you consider both the duration and the intensity of the light. You can fill your windows with full-sun plants and save less well-lit spaces for plants that don’t need full light. While it’s never a substitute for the sun, fluorescent lighting can also help to supplement natural light.

Most plants at nurseries are tagged with some growing information like whether they need low, medium or high light. If they aren’t, check with sales staff or research your plants online to make sure what you choose will be a good fit for your space.

If your plant begins to lean significantly toward the light, it should be moved, as this is a sign that it’s not getting enough sun. You should also turn your plants regularly so each side gets equal sun exposure.

Water

The two most common causes of houseplant death are over- and under-watering. Many sources recommend watering plants once a week, but that’s just a guideline. To really gauge your plant’s water needs, you should use your finger to test the moisture of the soil just below the surface. If it’s still moist, don’t water it yet. For most plants, the best plan is to saturate the soil, then let it dry out before watering again. After a few cycles, your plants will let you know how long to go between waterings. If the plant is droopy or wilting, water less frequently.

Nutrients

Unlike the plants in your landscape, the correct houseplant potting medium is potting soil, which is typically a mix of peat, perlite, and vermiculite. Natural soils typically do not drain well, and so are not well suited to potted plants. Many of today’s potting soil mixes even come with additional nutrients to get you off to a good start.

Over time, those initial nutrients will leach out of the soil and will need to be replenished. An occasional fertilizer feeding will be necessary to keep plants healthy. Many good premixed houseplant fertilizers are available – just remember – it’s better to under-fertilize than to over-fertilize. Over-fertilizing can burn plants.

Temperature

Most common houseplants are native to climates similar to the temperature and conditions inside our homes. They do best at 65 to 75 degrees during the day and slightly cooler nighttime temperatures. Don’t place plants directly in the line of a heater, fan or air conditioner.

Pots and containers

Choosing the correct sized pot can be key to your plant’s health. A pot that is too small will limit plant growth and an over-sized pot can cause root rot when too much water is retained in the pot. Adequate drainage is critical.

You will periodically need to repot your plants. If the roots are straining out of the bottom of the pot, it’s time to move to a larger container. Generally, a new pot should just be a few inches bigger than the old one.

Air Root Plant – Also called Mother of Thousands, the babies form along the outer edges of the leaves of the mother plant. It likes full sun light.

Aloe – This full-sun-loving classic succulent has a sap that can help heal burns.

False Aralia – This wispy, upright plant is typically a floor plant as it gets four to eight feet tall. They like high humidity and moist soil with moderate light.

Begonia – This beautiful and colorful plant likes diffused light and a little extra moisture.

Dracaena – Also called Corn Plant, this is a simple plant to grow and likes strong or full sunlight. It can grow well over six feet tall.

Weeping Fig – This is an evergreen tree with a strong growth habit. This plant hates to be moved. Even a few inches to the right or left and it will drop its leaves

Philodendron – This is an easy plant to grow. The heart-shaped leaves are tough and adaptable.

Pothos Ivy – A great starter houseplant, pothos ivy is nearly impossible to kill. The plant can be started from cuttings placed in soil or water and can be left in water for long periods of time.

Rubber Tree – This traditional and simple plant requires little fuss and has pretty, glossy leaves that are striking. It has average water needs.

Snake Plant or Mother-In-Law Tongue – This is a very traditional houseplant. It seems to thrive on neglect.

Spider Plant – This delicate plant that grows new plantlets from shoots off the sides. It is great in hanging baskets. It likes diffused light and moist soil.

Wandering Jew – A fast growing vine that is perfect for hanging baskets. Do not let the soil get soggy.

By Diana C. Kirby|2017-11-29T23:27:19-06:00December 24th, 2011|Articles|0 Comments

Billowy Breezes Highlight Grasses in the Garden

You can’t help but stare at them — those delicate grasses now in full bloom, swaying in the breeze all around town. Fall brings beautiful plumes and seed heads to the native and adapted ornamental grasses in Central Texas.

As we face drier and hotter conditions in the garden, ornamental grasses make a wonderful alternative to some thirsty perennials and annuals. They are extremely versatile. Most varieties are hardy, drought-tolerant, pest free and low-maintenance. They range from a few inches high to more than 6 feet tall.

Their tiny flowers on long plumes are called inflorescence and their colors run the gamut from greens, golds and browns to pinks and maroons. The decorative plumage and seedpods can be dried for decorative use in arrangements inside or outside.

Grasses look wonderful in the garden mixed in with perennials to add contrast and texture. But there is nothing quite as bold as a mass planting of grasses to make a statement in the landscape. A long strip of Mexican feather grasses flowing in the wind can emulate a rushing stream – bringing life and movement into the garden.

Most grasses grow in the warm season and are dormant into the winter, but some hold onto their seed heads long into the winter, making for interesting structure and form in the garden and providing both food and habitat for birds.

Technically speaking, some of the plants we call ornamental grasses are actually rushes or sedges and even cattails. Real grasses are in the Gramineae family.

When the Europeans began to settle in Texas, about two-thirds of the land was covered with our native grasses. According to the Texas State Historical Association, grasses ranged from the desert mountains and foothills of the Trans-Pecos to the Rolling Plains and the Edwards Plateau. There are more than 470 native grass species in Texas.

Grasses grow and reproduce in two ways. Some spread by underground rhizomes or as a bunch grass, which does not spread underground. Some seeds sprout easily, growing volunteers where the wind has dropped the seed.

Cool season or fall-blooming grasses should be left through the winter after they are done blooming and go dormant. Keeping the foliage will help protect the plant from a cold or wet winter, reducing the chance of rot. Grasses couldn’t be lower maintenance – just cut them all the way back in the spring and they will reward you with new growth and beautiful blooms year after year. You can shear them down to between 4 and 6 inches above the ground to allow new growth to come through.

As grasses go dormant in the summer, so you may have to rake or pull out some dead foliage mid-summer to keep them looking good. With our long growing season, they will revive with cooler fall temperatures and put on a beautiful show.

Good Grasses for Central Texas

Ruby Crystals – The puffy pink flowers of Ruby grass can grow to 2 ft. by 15” and are stunning in fall bloom.

Mexican Feather Grass – These perky little plants grow to about 18” by 18” and just keep on performing in the garden. It self sows prolifically, but is easily managed.

Gulf Muhly – The glowing pink hue of these blooms is stunning when massed in the garden. This bunch grass grows to about 2.5 ft. by 3 ft.

Lindheimer’s Muhly – Tall creamy plumes of this bunch grass turn to silver in winter and provide striking structure in the winter garden at 2 to 4 ft. tall.

Bamboo Muhly — With an unusual tall and weeping growth habit of 4-5 ft., this muhly has an airy, ephemeral look, instead of the straighter growth habits of most grasses.

Little Bluestem – This is a true prairie bunch grass and can survive in many different soils. Its very upright 3ft by 1.5 ft. growth habit has a wild look and works best in a meadow.

Purple Fountain Grass – The maroon color of the foliage of purple fountain grass, topped by its buff colored plumes, is striking in any setting. Growing up to 3 ft. tall, it demands a place to shine in the garden.

Dwarf fountain grass – Fluffy cream-colored plumes arch above a short clump of delicate green foliage that turns golden in the fall. At about 2 ft. by 2 ft. it’s a compact bundle of pretty form in the garden.

Switchgrass – Tall, airy switchgrass with its blue-colored plumes can grow between 3-8 ft. tall. The plumes turn to a bright orange color in fall.

Maidengrass – One of the most common grasses, maidengrass has a narrow, arching foliage and many variegated options are available, creating even more interest. Leave space for this one – it can grow to 8 ft. tall.

Inland sea oats – This grass has a weeping style with drooping branches of seeds up to 8” long. Inland sea oats requires shade and more moisture than many other grasses. It grows to 2-3 ft. and is a great grass for dried arrangements.

Grasses are an easy, drought-tolerant addition to the garden. They are an excellent low-maintenance option for your landscape, and typically only require cutting back once as year when new growth begins in the spring.

Their billowy plumes and interesting array of colors will add structure, form and movement to your landscape.

With minimal care, they will reward you with new growth and beautiful blooms year after year.

By Diana C. Kirby|2020-05-09T08:05:22-05:00November 25th, 2011|Articles, grass, grasses, Mexican feathergrass|0 Comments

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