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Some plants like bare feet in the winter

By now, most central Texas gardeners have experienced at least a light frost if not a hard freeze.  Our summer-loving perennials are fading, losing blooms, dropping leaves and going to seed in preparation for winter dormancy.

While it may seem like it’s break time in the garden, now is actually a great time to plant a number of things.  Nurseries are now stocking up on bare root plants – a wide variety of plants, vegetables and trees that are available for sale with their roots exposed instead of planted in containers with soil.

Bare root plants are dormant, dug up by the grower and kept cold until they are shipped.  They weigh less without soil and containers and are much easier to ship, therefore, they are a great value because they cost less.  Once the plant is placed in the ground and watered, it will begin to grow again.

According to Jeff Ferris, of the Natural Gardener, “It is less expensive to plant a bare root tree.  If a bare root tree and a container tree are planted at the same time, with the exact same care and conditions, they will reach the same height at the same time.”

Larger container trees take longer to overcome the setbacks and shock of transplanting from the grower and having their roots cut to place them in containers.  So buying a smaller, bare root tree will give it a better start and cost less, too.

What kinds of plants are available bare root?

  • Fruit and nut trees
  • Berries
  • Vegetables
  • Roses
Fruit trees

Most fruit trees require a specific number of “chilling hours” to grow and fruit properly.

This is the number of hours of winter temperatures between 32° to 45° F to break dormancy and induce normal bloom and vegetative growth. Varieties with a chilling requirement that is too low are likely to bloom early and be more susceptible to frost. If the chilling requirement is too high, they may be very slow to break dormancy and may abort fruit.

According to Texas A&M University’s Agricultural Extension Service, Travis County has approximately 700 average chill hours.  (Bear in mind, “average” is a very slippery slope for central Texas gardeners, given our seesawing weather patterns in recent years.)

The specific varieties listed below meet the appropriate chilling requirements for the Travis County.  (In an “average” year!)

Peaches  (Well-adapted to our extreme climate swings)

  • TexStar
  • La Feliciana
  • Spring Gold
  • June Gold
  • Bicentennial
  • Sentinel
  • Harvester
  • Red Gold
  • Dixiland

Plums

  • Methley
  • Morris
  • Ozark
  • Premier
  • Alfred
  • Bruce

Pears  (Easy fruit trees to grow, require least pruning and insect control)

  • Ayers
  • Magness
  • Orient
  • Maxine
  • Keiffer
  • LeConte
  • Moonglow

These are generally the most popular fruit trees grown in our area.  Apples, apricots, citrus, figs, pecans, persimmons and others can also be grown successfully in central Texas.  Ask your local nursery expert about well-adapted varieties of these trees.

Some trees are self-pollinating, however most fruit trees require cross-pollination. These trees need pollen from another tree to produce fruit, and the tree must be a different cultivar.  Pollen from its own flowers or those of another tree of the same cultivar will not successfully pollinate the female parts of the flowers, due to incompatible timing.  Be sure to check with the nursery to determine if a specific variety needs a pollinator to produce fruit.

Berries

Grapes  (Nearly half of all species of grapes are native to Texas. While wild mustang grapes are prolific here, they aren’t as versatile for table use.)

  • Blanc Du Bois
  • Champanel
  • Golden Muscat
  • Carlos
  • Jumbo
  • Magnolia

Black berries

  • Brazos
  • Womack
  • Shawnee
  • Rosborough
  • Navajo
  • Arapaho
  • Brison

Strawberries

  • Chandler
  • Sequoia
  • Douglas
  • Tioga, Fresno, Tangi

Raspberries

  • Dorman Red
Vegetables

Artichokes

  • Green Globe
  • Imperial Star

Asparagus

  • Martha Washington
  • UC 157
  • Jersey Giant
  • UC 72
  • Jade Cross
  • Long Island Improved
  • Diablo
Roses

There are at least 100 varieties of roses that grow well in central Texas – far too many to list.  For specific varieties, from climbers to floribundas, the A&M horticulture website has an extensive listing at:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/PLANTanswers/publications/roses/south.html

How to know if the plant is healthy

If you’ve never bought bare root plants before, they might look like dead sticks.  But there are ways to make sure you’re getting a good specimen.

  • Check for mold or mildew on the roots. If the mold coverage is very light, you can clean it off.  But, if mold covers the roots or the root feels soft, the plant is dead.
  • A healthy specimen will have lots of intact root “hairs.” Check for broken roots, you can cut off the root at the bend but never cut a healthy root to accommodate the size of your hole.
  • The plant may smell earthy, but should not smell bad or rotten .
  • The branches should not be damaged. A few broken twigs are okay.
  • Roots, rhizomes, and other parts should feel heavy. If they feel light and dried
  • out then the plant probably will not grow.

At most local nurseries, customers wrap and bag their own fruits and vegetables – placing the plant and some sand in newspaper, wetting the newspaper and then placing it in a plastic bag around the plant.  I always get a kick out of the process, feeling like I somehow have a more personal connection with the plant after I’ve lovingly wrapped it up to bring home.

How to plant and care for bare root plants

Once you’ve taken your plants home, remove any packing material, such as sawdust or sand and soak the root portion of the plant in water, several hours for woody plants and 10-20 minutes for perennials, asparagus, strawberries, etc.  It is important to get bare root plants into the ground quickly.

Dig a hole that is wide enough and deep enough to put the plant in without

bending or crowding the roots.  Place the plant in the hole at the same level it was grown by the nursery — where the roots start and top shoots begin (the crown). Don’t cover the root graft or the crown of your plants. Spread the roots out evenly and don’t backfill the holes of trees with anything other than the soil that was dug out to create the hole.

Water the plant thoroughly, making sure that the soil around the roots is moist.  And finally, mulch the plant to help protect it.  Water new plants regularly until established.

Bare root trees will probably need to be staked for one year.

By |2017-11-29T23:27:25-06:00December 10th, 2010|Articles|0 Comments
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With cold weather on the way, prepare now to protect your plants

The recent dip in nighttime temperatures had many people (including me) scurrying around outside at night to protect their tender plants.

It is that time of year, when we play chicken with Mother Nature.  Will it really get that cold?  Am I in a little pocket that’s warmer/colder/somehow different than the forecast?  Some of us are in perpetual denial, while the rest (like me) run around like Henny Penny thinking the sky is falling.

Depending on the source you check, the average first frost in Austin is said to be anywhere between November 28 and December 5.  That means the time to prepare is now.

What’s the difference between a frost and a freeze?  Frost occurs when temperatures drop and moisture in the air condenses to dew and freezes on plants when it reaches 32F. (Plants lose heat faster than air, so it’s important to remember that plants can be damaged even if air temperatures don’t actually reach freezing.)

Frost may then turn into a freeze when temperatures fall below 32F. At that point, ice crystals may form inside plant cells, rupturing them.  When the temperature rises again, the cells leak, turning to mush and the resulting black foliage.

A “hard” freeze occurs when the temperature drops to 28F or below.  Long, hard freezes, such as those we experienced last winter, are almost impossible to protect against.

But, in an average Central Texas winter, there are many things you can do protect plants from frosts or freezes.

First, water moderately before the freeze.  Water loses its heat more slowly than air throughout the night.  Combined with covering plants or even a heat source, watering can help make a real difference by a few critical degrees.

Sheets, blankets and heavyweight row cover can all help protect plants from a freeze.  But it’s important to note that it’s not the cover that keeps the plant warm, it’s the radiant heat coming up from the ground that is held in by the cover.  Drape the cover all the way down to the ground and secure it like a tent with rocks, bricks or my favorite – canned vegetables (lighter than rocks, easier to find in a pinch, and they don’t mess up your sheets and blankets).

Do not, however, drape something over the top of the plant and then tie it around the trunk like a giant lollipop.  This is pointless, because you are actually keeping the heat away from the plant.  If you have plants that can’t withstand the weight of a blanket or sheet, you can plan ahead and use tomato cages, large boxes or PVC hoops or frames – really, anything to hold up the cover.

For particularly tender plants or a really cold night, you can also add a droplight or the large-bulb Christmas lights under the cover to create some additional heat.  Be careful not to let the bulb touch either plant or cover.

If temperatures rise above freezing – remove covers the next day to allow the plants to absorb the next day’s heat and recover as necessary.

Protecting container plants is a little trickier.  Their roots are much less insulated than plants in the ground and will get much colder.  To protect them, you can group them against your house and use the same techniques as you would for in-ground plants.  Even the littlest radiant heat from the house can help make a difference on a cold night.

But what do you do when we have a colder winter, or you have larger or more tender plants, that just need more protection.

If you have one, you can put them in a greenhouse.  There are many on the market – from traditional glass structures to mini houses made of plastic.  But beware, in the cold of winter, the temperature inside is usually the same as it is outside.  A greenhouse will require a heater to protect plants.  And, with our wildly fluctuating day and night-time temps, you will frequently have to open it all up and water daily when the days are nice and warm.  Even though the nighttime cold doesn’t change the inside temperature, the daytime sun most definitely does! My greenhouse can be 20 degrees hotter inside than the outside temperature on a really warm day – so be prepared to tend to the plants often and open and close the greenhouse daily.

Having spent years putting big pots of plants in the garage, this is also a great way to overwinter them, with a few conditions.  Remember, plants need light, and overhead light won’t cut it.  If you don’t have windows in your garage, make sure you open the garage door to let in sunlight and fresh air when temperatures allow.  In the garage, some plants will go dormant for the winter reserving their energy in their roots for the next spring.  Water them sparingly and let them rest for the winter. Once indoors, these plants require less water since there is no wind, and winter

daylight hours are shorter and lighting levels lower. More houseplants are lost to over watering than under watering. Water only when the top 1/2-inch of soil is dry to the touch. When their leaves drop, don’t worry and don’t fertilize them to try to push them into growth while they are inside.

How do you decide what to cover?  Different plants have varying cold hardiness – more established and mature plants have stronger, deeper root systems and can withstand more than tender plants or newly planted plants.  You may want to take extra care if you’ve put in a new fall bed or have recently planted new perennials.

Let’s say you weren’t watching the weather forecast and you lost some perennials.  What do you do now?  Don’t prune them.  I know it’s tempting to take that dead stuff off so you don’t have to look at it.  But, those freeze-damaged stems provide some protection for the plant for the rest of the winter.  And pruning encourages growth – the last thing you want now when there are several more freezes to come.  A repeat cycle of growing and freezing is hard on the plants.  Just consider them items of sculptural interest in your garden!

So, plan now – collect your sheets and blankets, find some tomato cages, lights and canned goods and you’ll be ready to go when a surprise weather forecast sets you scurrying at 5 p.m.

Frost tolerance of fall vegetables:

Possible damage by light frost:  Beans, cucumbers, eggplants, cantaloupe, Okra, peppers, pumpkins, summer squash, tomatoes

Can tolerate light frost:  Artichokes, beets, carrots, cauliflower, celery, Chinese cabbage, lettuce, peas, Swiss chard

Can tolerate hard frost:  Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, collards, kale, kohlrabi, onions, parsley, peas, radishes, spinach, turnips.

And remember, frost can make leafy greens and root vegetables sweeter, so leave some of your chard and carrots in the ground until you are ready to eat them.

By |2017-11-29T23:27:25-06:00November 13th, 2010|Articles|0 Comments
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Fall for gardening all over again

A vegetable gardening wave is sweeping the country.   More and more people are relying less on store-bought vegetables and plotting their own gardens — enjoying the fresh, home-grown taste of their own food, enhancing their sustainability, and getting their children excited about growing and harvesting vegetables from their own back yards.

Luckily, we enjoy two long and bountiful growing seasons here in central Texas.  September is the magic month for planting many of the fall garden vegetables we can grow.  And that means it’s time to pull the summer garden plants out, revitalize the beds and start fresh for fall.

Whether you still have tomatoes and peppers and okra producing in these dog days of summer, or your garden is already a crispy critter, now is the time to make some fall gardening choices.

It’s tough love time in the garden.

Many summer vegetables like tomatoes, peppers and okra are spent and should be removed to leave room for a new fall garden. Some plants can have a second fall crop, but once they are done, it’s too late to plant many of our favorite fall veggies, so you have to decide which is more important to you. Also, since the days are getting shorter many vegetables store more sugar and actually have better flavor than some spring-grown crops.

The first thing to do to prepare for a fall garden is prepare the soil.  The easiest step is to add a few inches of compost to the beds.  You can also add a little 8-2-4 fertilizer because fall vegetables tend to be heavy feeders.  This will help give your new plants a healthy growing medium in which to get a good start.

Should I plant transplants or seeds?

There is still time to plant some vegetables as transplants, and it’s the perfect time to plant many varieties of seeds.

Transplants

Although many vegetables bask in our full sun, there is an exception – the typical heat of August to mid-September.  New plants will definitely need some shade from the blazing sun.  Transplants aren’t strong enough or well enough established to withstand the heat.  Shade cloth, floating row cover or any other cloth hung above the new plants, umbrellas, or anything you can find to shield them from the hottest hours of sunlight will help ensure their survival through this difficult time.  They will also benefit from a generous layer of mulch to help protect them.

Seeds

Seeds need the same TLC as new transplants, including a little shade. Water the soil well a few days before planting the seeds so that it isn’t so hot and dry when you plant them.  Then keep soil moist with frequent watering during germination by using a gentle spray to moisten the soil well. Hand sprinkle at least once daily unless it happens to rain.

It is usually more difficult to start seeds during hot, dry weather.  Larger seeds like beans can be soaked overnight between two damp paper towels.  Smaller seeds like carrots should also be covered with a light application of mulch or compost to help them retain enough moisture to sprout. Once seedlings are established, you can water deeper and less frequently.  Also, don’t be alarmed if it takes your seeds longer to reach maturity than the printed date on seed packets. Because the days are getting shorter, it may take your seeds longer to germinate.

Favorite Fall Crops

Once your garden soil is amended, you’re ready.  When you begin planting, make sure you plan for successive planting.   You don’t want 10 cabbages ready to eat all at the same time.  Instead, plant a row, wait a week and plant another row.  The same rule applies to vegetables like carrots and beets planted one plant at a time.

Why is selecting the proper vegetable varieties so important? If you’ve been gardening for any length of time, you know there are many different varieties of garden vegetables. However, only three or four varieties of any one vegetable are well suited or adapted to our area.

For additional detailed information about gardening in central Texas, check out the Garden Guide from the Texas Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program, available at most local nurseries and garden centers. 

Central Texas Vegetable Varieties

Vegetables to plant as transplants and recommended varieties for our area:

Broccoli  Green Comet, Packman, Premium Crop, Baccus

Carrots  Imperator, Nantes, Texas Gold Spike, Orlando Gold

Cabbage Bravo, Rio Verde, Red Rookie
Cauliflower Snow Crown

Vegetables to plant as seeds and recommended varieties for our area:

Beans
Snap Topcrop, Tendercrop, Tendergreen, Kentucky Wonder, Greencrop
Pinto UI-114, Dwarf Horticultural, Luna
Green Beans Roma II, Contender, Tendercrop.

Beets Pacemaker, Detroit Dark Red
Carrots Imperator, Nantes, Texas Gold Spike.

Chinese Cabbage Jade Pagoda, Monument, Napa, China Pride
Cucumbers Poinsett 76, Sweet Success, Dasher II, Sweet Slice, Calypso, Carolina

Garlic Texas White
Greens

Collards Blue Max, Georgia Southern,

Chard Lucullus, Ruby
Mustard Green Wave, Tendergreen, Southern Giant Curl
Kale Vates, Blue Knight
Lettuce
Crisp Head Mission
Loose Leaf Prizehead, Red Sails, Black-Seeded Simpson
Butter Head Buttercrunch
Melons
Cantaloupe Mission, Primo, Caravelle
Honey Dew TAM Dew, Honey Star
Onions
Bulb Texas 1015 Y, Early Grano 502, Granex 33
Green Evergreen, Bunching, Crystal Wax
Potatoes
Irish Red, Red LaSoda, Norland
White Kennebec
Sweet Beauregard, TAMU Corder, Centennial, Jewel
Radish Cherry Belle, Sparkler, White Icicle, French Breakfast
Spinach Savoy, Green Valley II, Ozarka II, Fall Green, Coho
Squash

Summer Goldie, Gold Bar, Multipik
Zucchini President, Senator
Butternut Waltham, Early Butternut
Turnips White Lady, Royal Globe II

By |2017-11-29T23:27:26-06:00September 18th, 2010|Articles|0 Comments
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D’oh, a deer

So many of us have done it.  You buy a beautiful plant at the nursery, but you’re not familiar with it.  You check the tag, see how much sun and water it needs and bring it home to plant.  Only to find the next morning all that remains are stubs of green at the ground – flowers and leaves have all been stripped – leaving it bare and leaving you fuming.

Sound familiar?  It’s called gardening with deer.

Why is it so exasperating?  Because learning to garden with deer is like aiming at a moving target.

As urban growth infringes more and more on their habitat, the deer problem grows as well.  With no natural predators left, they are competing with us for food and water.

When it comes to controlling them, there are more outrageous claims for repellants than there are deer, frankly.  The list runs the gamut:  urine, pepper spray, blood meal, rotten eggs, human hair, soap shavings, fabric softener sheets.

Gardeners who have lived with deer for a long time will tell you one universal truth:

There is no such thing as deer proof. 

There are some repellants that work on some deer for some of the time.

Unfortunately, it’s almost impossible to determine what will turn away YOUR deer and whether or not the same concoction will also work next week.  Nothing is 100%.  And most of the potions…well, they stink, literally.  And they have to be reapplied regularly.

Motion sensors with lights and sprinklers usually only work for a few weeks until the deer figure out the pattern and outwit us again.  Dogs can help, but again, they aren’t on patrol constantly and deer move at night when Fido is sometimes snoring peacefully.

The only reasonably reliable deterrent is a fence, but without long and open sprinting access areas over which they might vault.  Thicker vegetation and trees close to a privacy-type fence seem to be fairly safe.  For larger properties out in the country, an electric fence will sometimes work, if they don’t simply jump over the top of it.  But they are expensive and complex and not usually an option for the average home gardener.

Certain type of netting over some plants will also work, but they can trap birds and other animals and make it difficult to garden, not to mention they aren’t very attractive.

Because they have so many muscles attached to their ears, they can turn their ears in any direction without moving their heads. They have excellent hearing and can hear higher frequencies of sound than humans.  They don’t like loud, clanging sounds, so large wind chimes may keep them at bay on occasion.

Deer also have an acute sense of smell, up to 20 times greater than humans, and they have eyes on the sides of their head, giving them a 310 degree view of the world around them.  If they are looking for goodies in your garden, they’re going to find them!

What are considered deer “goodies,” you ask?  They love sweet, juicy plants like succulents, hostas and lilies.  They look for new plantings or fresh, new growth on established plants.  Our gardens are particularly vulnerable now, when fresh, spring growth becomes abundant.

I have found that their sense of smell also calls them to freshly-turned earth.  New plantings, even things they dislike, will entice them.  They seem perfectly content to stomp around in my garden and paw undesirable plants out of the ground, leaving them to dry out and die, just for the sport of it.  So I always protect new plants for a few weeks with a little circle of chicken wire or a milk crate or something similar until the soil and plants aren’t fresh and tempting.

So, you ask, which plants are deer resistant?  Again, that depends on many variables. In drought years like we’ve been experiencing, the deer have little to eat in their habitat and venture into our gardens to eat things they would never otherwise eat in a year with average rainfall and growth.  And different herds of deer have been know to eat different kinds of plants.  They’re kind of like us – some like ketchup on their burgers, some like mustard!

But there are some general (not guaranteed) guidelines you can follow.

Deer tend to dislike certain textures.  They seem to avoid plants with wooly or fuzzy leaves, like Lamb’s Ear, and herbs with strong scents and flavors like rosemary, garlic, Mexican oregano, mint.  Native plants seem to fare better as well, like Lantana horrida, and some salvias and sages.  They occasionally avoid thorny plants, but will also eat roses with thorns with great abandon.

In addition to plants, young trees also need protecting during the deer breeding season, which occurs between October and January. Called the “rut,”  it is when their antlers lose their velvet.   To prepare for territorial fights, they crash antlers with other bucks, and will often scrape their antlers against trees, breaking branches and severely damaging bark.  They also become very nervous and are constantly active, exhibiting erratic behavior and often wandering into places you would normally not find them, like residential areas.

There is good new, however.  Many of our local nurseries do an excellent job of labeling plants “deer tend to avoid.”  Again, no guarantees, but that’s a very useful piece of information when you’re shopping and run across something you don’t know much about but just have to have.

There are also many excellent websites with extensive alphabetical deer resistant plant lists, divided by types of plant.

http://www.ci.austin.tx.us/growgreen/plantguide/searchplant.cfm

http://www.wildflower.org/collections/collection.php?collection=deer

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/publications/deerbest.html

http://www.klru.org/ctg/resource/Plant_List/Deer_Resistant_Plants_%28Nancy_Webber%29/

So, do a little research, check out plants before you buy them, and protect them when they are newly-planted in your garden.  You can garden with deer, you just have to serve them a menu that they don’t like.

By |2019-07-15T19:14:19-05:00April 10th, 2010|Articles|0 Comments
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Proper Pruning: Dead or Dormant?

Unlike last year, when many of the perennials in our gardens lived and even bloomed through the entire winter, this year the pendulum has swung the other way.

After repeated record cold temperatures, we’ve all been reduced to watching our gardens turn to mush, sticks and crackling paper.  The colors du jour are brown and black and rotten. The kind of severe freeze damage we’ve had this winter has left even the most seasoned gardeners wondering what will live and what will die?  Is it dormant or is it dead?

We’re on the home stretch now – we only have a few more weeks with a danger of frost left. According to the USDA Hardiness Zone map for the Austin area, our average last frost occurs between March 1 and March 31. It’s typically the middle of March.  (But don’t forget, it hasn’t been a typical winter.)

So, it’s time to think about pruning back our dormant plants – to clean up the dead limbs and to stimulate new spring growth.

Perennials

First, assess the damage on your dormant perennials – plants like Lantana, Esperanza, or Salvias.  If you scrape along the stem of most woody perennials you will be able to tell whether it is alive or not.  Scratch and look for any signs of green, particularly near the base of the plant.  Normal pruning of most of our perennials will suffice if the plant is just dormant and not dead. Many of our woody plants can be pruned entirely to the ground.  Just make clean sharp cuts leaving about 6” of stem above the ground.  If you want to leave some size and shape on the plant, just prune back to healthy tissue at the size you like.

Now that everything is looking clean and starting to bud out, don’t be tempted to fertilize newly-pruned shrubs. They need to use all of their energy to begin new growth and fertilizing now will over-stress them.  Wait until later in the spring – at least a month — when they are established again.

Succulents

But what do we do with succulents and agaves? Many of our aloes, agaves and their cousins just bit the dust in this freeze.

Ironic, isn’t it?

Many Central Texas gardeners bought these plants to expand the drought tolerance palette of their gardens in last summer’s scorching heat.  Then this vicious and unusually-cold winter reduced many of them to pulp!

Freeze-damaged succulents are usually a lighter color, almost white, soon after the freeze.  Later, the damaged part of the plant will wilt, and then turn black with rot.  In some succulents, the affected part just eventually fall off.

On your Agaves, even with rotten or dead leaves, if the center bud is green and firm, the plant will likely to grow out and recover. However, the parts that are damaged or dead never will recover, and here is the tricky part. For these types of plants, it is important to cut out only the dead parts, whether that is a whole leaf or only a part of one. It is a risk to prune living leaves on these kinds of plants because it invites infection, and when the plants are stressed out anyway, they are more susceptible to disease. Be careful also to look for little pups – new plants – growing under the dead plant when you remove dead leaves.

Palm trees

The same applies to palm trees: If the bud is fine, the plant will probably live. Cut off dead or highly damaged leaves once it is warmer. Palms grow in the warm spring and through the summer, and may look much better by the end of the summer.   Just give them time.

Cycads – Sago Palms 

Many Austin gardeners enjoy the drama of large Sago palms in their landscapes.  Not actually palms at all, Sagos are actually cycads. Temperatures in the high teens like we had this year can frost-damage leaves which may turn yellow or brown.  These should be removed to reduce stress on the plant and encourage new growth. If the trunk and leaf crown are hard wood, it should recover.  If the trunk turns soft, your sago may be damaged beyond recovery.  Because they do produce new pups from the trunk, it might be worth cutting off all the leaves and just leaving it in hopes a pup will sprout later in the spring.

Cacti

Cacti are very sensitive to pruning timing. While they may look really bad with their dying pads and stems, it is important to wait until it is really warm to prune them.  Then dust the big cuts with sulfur to help dry out the cuts.  Jointed cacti regenerate really well, but the columnar ones should to be cut back to the base or you will just end up with a permanent stump.  If the plant is oozing, you can give it a quiet burial.

By |2017-11-29T23:27:33-06:00March 10th, 2010|Articles|0 Comments
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Escape in the garden

Gardening to destress or grow food has never been more important. Get my FREE Five Quick Container Tips to start your own restorative gardening project today. Hook me up now!

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