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Plant trees now for successful growth

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Lacebark

As the nights finally begin to cool, ushering in what we call fall in Central Texas, it’s the right time to begin planting trees. Planting in the fall and winter enables new trees to become established over the dormant cold season – putting their energy into growing strong root systems that will enable them to take up water better and handle the heat of the following summer.

How to plant

It seems so simple: dig a deep hole, shovel a lot of good compost into the bottom and plop in the tree, right? Wrong. Many well-intentioned homeowners inadvertently make planting mistakes that can kill their new investment.

So, it’s important to understand the process and follow the right steps.

First, dig the hole and set the soil aside as you will need it again. Don’t remove the tree from its container or burlap bag first and then leave it out in the open air while you start digging, hit a rock, take a break, take a nap or forget about it entirely.  And, if you can’t dig the hole when you bring home the tree, be sure to water it regularly in its container until you have time to plant.

The hole should be about 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball and the soil on the sides of the hole should be broken up a little with a shovel or other gardening tool. Make sure the sides of the hole aren’t slick because this can discourage drainage and drown your tree. And, with our Central Texas clay soils, this roughing up of the edges is also critical to encourage upper roots to grow out into the soil from the side.

Do not dig the hole any deeper than the depth of the existing root ball. The bottom of the ball needs to sit on undisturbed soil. The tree should be planted at the same level as the original container or the soil at the top of the root ball. Setting it on loosened or amended soil will make the tree settle and sink too far into the hole.

Before placing the tree, take a look at its root ball. It should be firm and not broken. If its roots encircle the root ball, you’ll need to gently loosen the pot-bound roots a little. Left alone, they will continue to grow around instead of outward, girdling and eventually killing the tree. Always handle the tree by the root ball, and not the trunk.

Once you’ve placed the tree, backfill the hole with the original soil that you set aside. Do not add fresh soil or compost. Amended backfill can slow tree development and prevent it from establishing a widespread root system. Do not add fresh soil to the top, either. Adding soil above the original container level and covering the flare of the trunk will cut off oxygen to the roots and can cause the tree to rot.

Be careful also not to compress the soil when you backfill the hole with the original soil; the tree needs both water and air. Then, water the newly planted tree slowly until you have saturated the roots and the hole is soaked.

Once the tree is planted and watered, create a ring of mulch several feet in diameter around the tree to help avoid runoff of precious water. This will also help to protect the soil, insulating it from extreme heat or cold. Do not mound up the mulch like a pyramid against the trunk of the tree. Create instead a doughnut-like ring. Keep the mulch closest to the trunk at about an inch high, leaving the area immediately next to the trunk bare.  Pile the outside of the ring about 4 inches high.

Watering your tree

New trees require more water than established trees. The most common cause of death for newly planted trees is over or under watering during the first year or two after they have been planted. It can take that long for their roots to get established. Remember, as the tree canopy grows, so will the root zone, so the tree should not be watered fast and hard at the base of the trunk, but rather gently and slowly around the root zone under the canopy. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation are excellent methods for slow, deep supplemental watering of trees. Depending on your soil and rainfall, new trees should be watered once a week for the first few growing seasons. They should be allowed to dry out between watering; you can check the moisture level by sticking your finger or a tool into the soil under the tree mulch to see if it’s still wet or not.

There is no standard watering rule, but many experts recommend 10 gallons of water each week per inch of tree caliper. So, a 3-inch caliper tree would need 30 gallons of water each week. Trees should be watered at this rate even through the winter, because their roots continue to grow all year long. Obviously, you should adjust for rainfall.

Different trees have different needs, so watch for any signs of water stress – too much or too little – and adjust your watering accordingly. Native and well-adapted trees or those with smaller leaves may be happy with a slightly less water. Bear in mind that site conditions like soil type, rockiness, or steep slopes should also be considered as you are caring for your tree.

Local Landscape Designer and Garden Coach Diana Kirby provides landscaping tips at http:/www.dianasdesignsaustin.com and writes a garden blog at https://www.dianasdesignsaustin.com

By |2017-11-29T23:27:04-06:00October 24th, 2014|Articles|Comments Off on Plant trees now for successful growth
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Consider Euphorbia for our climate

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Euphorbia rigida aka ‘gopher plant’ or ‘silver spurge'

In Central Texas, rain brings gardeners out into the streets to dance.  And dance I did, last week.

But I know that the drought isn’t over and the sun will return to beat upon our backs. Most summers, we live in a clay, cracked-earth and sometimes scorching environment.  Not the best conditions for gardening.

So, I am always on the lookout for another plant that will thrive here.  At the moment, I am taken with several species of Euphorbia and am trialing several of them in my garden.

The genus Euphorbia contains more than 2,000 very diverse species of plants.  They grow around the globe in warmer climates; some of the succulent species are very similar to cacti and can handle the heat and drought challenges of Central Texas gardens.

Euphorbia rigida has emerged as my favorite thus far.  Popular in many hill country gardens, this perennial plant, also known as ‘gopher plant’ or ‘silver spurge,’ is drought-hardy plant and will survive even the toughest conditions.  Native to the Mediterranean basin, it thrives in full sun and has low water needs.  It likes drainage but will do fine in rocky soils as well.

Growing 2-3 feet wide and 1-2 feet tall, gopher plant is evergreen and produces bright chartreuse blooms with red bracts in early spring.  The pretty, long-lasting little blooms seem to pop out all over this semi-spiky grey plant.  It’s Mother Nature’s answer to neon in the landscape palette.

If you have a large space to fill, it will seed out and spread but is also easily controlled. They begin growing upright and then bow down to the ground in a delicate mounding form. With their sculptural shape, these Euphorbias look nice paired with contrasting soft native plants like salvias or grasses.

Happy in a rocky, hill country wild environment, it also has the added bonus of being deer-proof.  That’s because it contains a milky sap that can be caustic and irritating to both the skin and eyes. Be sure to wear rubber garden gloves when pruning or handling them. But it’s worth the extra caution if it keeps those pesky deer away.

These leafy Euphorbias are often called “spurges,” because their common name is derived from the Latin word expurgare, which means “to purge.” The sap of some of these plants has traditionally been used as a purgative, or laxative.

Some of the other Euphorbias growing my garden include Euphorbia 'Ascot Rainbow' and Euphorbia amygdaloides.

Some of the other Euphorbias growing my garden include Euphorbia ‘Ascot Rainbow’ and Euphorbia amygdaloides.

Ascot rainbow has dramatic variegated foliage – grey leaves with a bright yellow edge.  And it can take our heat and full sun. Its growth habit is more upright and the leaves are not as close together as those of the gopher plant, though the blooms are almost identical.  It is slightly smaller than that of the gopher.

My Euphorbia amygdaloides didn’t fare as well this summer.  Its struggles were caused by operator error, however.  Filling several empty spaces in a bed, these plants were supposed to live in the shade of another new, but larger plant that didn’t make it.  Because this species is shade loving, it choked when left out in the open with full sun. It will be moving sometime next week to a friendlier location with dry shade.  Its leaves darker green and the stems are a striking deep red.  This variety can spread quickly, so give it room or be prepared to prune periodically.

With more than 2,000 species, there are many more that can do well in Central Texas, including smaller plants suitable for pots.

Some of the other, more well-known Euphorbias include poinsettias, crown of thorns and pencil cactus.

So, if you’re looking for a xeric, drought-tolerant and deer-proof plant that will bring you hours of enjoyment in your landscape, give one of these a try.

Local Landscape Designer and Garden Coach Diana Kirby provides landscaping tips at http:/www.dianasdesignsaustin.com and writes a garden blog at https://www.dianasdesignsaustin.com

By |2017-11-29T23:27:05-06:00September 20th, 2014|Articles|Comments Off on Consider Euphorbia for our climate
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It’s not too late for fall harvest

txaas_mastheadvegetable gardening

Follow calendar for successful growing season

Although the heat of summer won’t ease up for quite a while, it’s time to start the fall vegetable garden. Luckily, we enjoy two bountiful growing seasons here in Central Texas.

With a few modifications, many transplants and seeds can be planted now for a healthy harvest before the first frost.

That means it’s time to make room for the next round of goodies. You may need to pull out your summer crops – at least those with decreased production. If you wait until they’re all done, it may be too late for some of the fall crops.

It’s also a great opportunity to amend the soil and give it more nutrients. The easiest step is to add a few inches of compost to the beds.  You can spread a little 8-2-4 fertilizer, because fall vegetables tend to be heavy feeders. This will help give your new plants a healthy growing medium in which to get a good start. A layer of mulch will also help retain moisture and combat the scorching heat.

Keeping delicate young plants from frying presents the biggest challenge right now in the blistering sun. Transplants aren’t strong enough or well enough established to withstand the heat. That means providing some shade and keeping the ground damp.

As simple as rigging up some shade cloth or floating row cover on a few poles or even propping up an umbrella next to a tiny tomato, a little protection will go a long way. A nice layer of mulch also helps.

Seeds need the same TLC as new transplants, including shade. Water the soil well a few days before planting them so it isn’t so hot and dry when they go in. Then keep soil moist with frequent watering during germination by using a gentle spray to moisten the soil well. Hand sprinkle at least once daily unless it happens to rain.

Once your garden soil is amended, you’re ready. Anticipate your harvest by successive planting. You don’t want 10 broccoli plants ready to eat at the same time.  Instead, break up when you buy your transplants, plant a row, wait a week then plant another row.

Unfortunately, it’s a little late to plant tomatoes unless you’re careful. Their harvest time can vary from 45 days to 75 days, so buy those with the shortest number of days to maturity as possible to avoid losing your tomatoes to a killing frost before they ripen.

The following list outlines some of the varieties of vegetables that do well in the Austin area.  Why is selecting the right one so important? Some varieties grow and produce much better in our hot and dry conditions, so success in the garden often depends on starting with a well-adapted plant.

Plant September 1-15

Some of the recommended varieties for Central Texas *

  • Beets Detroit Dark, Golden Detroit, Merlin, Red Ace
  • Carrots Imperator, Nantes, Danver Half Long, Napoli
  • Chinese Cabbage China Express, Jade Pagoda
  • Endive Natacha, Keystone
  • Garlic California softneck
  • Greens/Collard Blue Max, Georgia Southern
  • Greens/Kale Red Russian, Winterbor, Lacinato
  • Greens/Mustard Green Wave, Tendergreen, Southern Giant Curl
  • Kohlrabi Early Purple or White Vienna, Winner
  • Lettuce Black seeded Simpson, Salad bowl, Parris island, Galactic
  • Peas Little Marvel, Sugar Mel, Sugar Sprint
  • Radishes Easter egg, Sparkler, Early Scarlet Globe, Champion
  • Summer Squash Dixie, Gold Rush, Patty Pan, Starship
  • Turnips White Lady, Globe II

Plant September 15-30

Some of the recommended varieties for Central Texas *

  • Beets Detroit Dark, Golden Detroit, Merlin, Red Ace
  • Carrots Imperator, Nantes, Danver Half Long, Napoli
  • Chinese Cabbage China Express, Jade Pagoda
  • Greens/Collard Blue Max, Georgia Southern
  • Greens/Mustard Green Wave, Tendergreen, Southern Giant Curl
  • Garlic California softneck
  • Lettuce Black seeded Simpson, Salad bowl, Parris island, Galactic
  • Peas Little Marvel, Sugar Mel, Sugar Sprint
  • Radishes Easter egg, Sparkler, Early Scarlet Globe, Champion
  • Spinach Space, Spargo, Emu, Bloomsdale, Hector
  • Turnips White Lady, Globe II

*Travis County Texas AgriLife Extension

Local Landscape Designer and Garden Coach Diana Kirby provides landscaping tips at http:/www.dianasdesignsaustin.com and writes a garden blog at https://www.dianasdesignsaustin.com

 

 

 

By |2017-11-29T23:27:05-06:00August 23rd, 2014|Articles|Comments Off on It’s not too late for fall harvest
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Xeriscaping the answer for drought defense

txaas_mastheaddrought tolerant plants

Punishing heat and drought. It’s a combination you wouldn’t wish on your worst gardening enemy. Keeping your landscape alive under these conditions presents a backbreaking and expensive challenge.

While we’ve had some welcome rain this summer, homeowners are still searching for alternatives to minimize their water use, their water bills and the hours spent trying to supplement with hand watering. Luckily, there are alternatives.

No, I don’t mean paving the front yard or filling it in with gravel and 3 cacti. Xeriscaping holds the key to adapting Austin’s landscapes to the changing climate of extremes sweeping the country.

Xeriscaping is a concept that originated in Colorado years ago during a severe drought. It comes from the Greek words ‘xeros’ (dry) and ‘scape’ (view).

It is definitely not “zero” scaping, as some mistakenly call it.  And it doesn’t mean never having to water or care for plants.

It means developing a water-efficient landscape through the use of good planning, appropriate plant and lawn selection, efficient irrigation, use of mulch and proper maintenance.

Texas’ fast-growing population and repeated periods of drought continue to strain the limits of our water supply. Years ago, water rationing used to be a rare measure reserved for particularly hot summers for brief periods of time.

Year-round limitations are now the norm. I’m not sure how long we’ve been subject to continuous water rationing. (Actually, I looked it up – the City of Austin’s restrictions have been constant since September 2012.

So, what are the steps to developing a xeric landscape that will flourish in our extremely hot and dry conditions?

Seven principles of Xeriscaping

  1. Good planning

  2. Soil analysis

  3. Appropriate plant and lawn selection

  4. Practical lawn choices

  5. Efficient Irrigation

  6. Use of mulch

  7. Proper maintenance

Plan ahead

Planning is important. Research the best plants and turf to use. Before you begin – think about the water needs of your landscape. If you plan well, you can cluster plants with low water needs together. And have your soil tested to determine if additional minerals or fertilizer might make your plants or soil healthier.  Add necessary amendments and compost when building beds.

Pick native and well-adapted plants

Reducing the amount of turf grass in your landscape and expanding use of native plants can significantly reduce water consumption. Native plants are also generally less susceptible to disease and harmful insects and have less fertilizer or special soil needs. There are plenty of xeric plants from which to choose—trees, shrubs, perennials, groundcovers and grasses—that can provide your garden with color and blooms all year.

A few of the popular native or well-adapted plants for our area include:

  • Artemesia
  • Salvia
  • Lavender
  • Santolina
  • Gregg’s Mist Flower
  • Desert Willow
  • Mexican Bird of Paradise
  • Dwarf yaupon holly
  • Rosemary
  • Euphorbia
  • Jerusalem sage
  • Agaves
  • Yuccas
  • Cacti
  • Skullcap
  • Texas Sage
  • Blackfoot Daisy
  • Daimianita
  • Zexmenia

Check with your local nurseries to learn more about other xeric Zone 8 plants.

These websites are also excellent resources:

http://www.ci.austin.tx.us/growgreen/plants.htm

http://www.wildflower.org/

http://npsot.org/

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/

Water wisely

Consider switching to more efficient methods of irrigating. Most sprinklers—both automated systems and hose-end, waste a great deal of water to evaporation. Watering is best done in the very early morning hours to prevent scorch and to minimize evaporation—even before sun-up for early birds or those with automatic systems.

The current City of Austin Stage 2 Watering Restrictions are as follows:

Automatic Irrigation – Residential
Even Address numbers – Thursday
Odd Address numbers – Wednesday
Before 5 a.m. or after 7 p.m.

Hose-end sprinkler– Residential
Even Address numbers – Sunday
Odd Address numbers – Saturday
Before 5 a.m. or after 7 p.m.

Overwatering or watering improperly also present problems. Too much water too often encourages plants to keep shallow roots. Less frequent, deep watering develops deep roots away from surface heat that will eventually require less water.

An excellent option to reduce water use, drip irrigation keeps water next to the plants and allows almost no evaporation. The soil absorbs and uses all the water, whereas sprinklers often saturate soil too quickly, resulting in water runoff.

Collecting rainwater (when we are lucky enough to get it) is another way to conserve. From simple rain barrels placed under downspouts to large commercial systems, using this “free” water is always a good choice, especially since plants prefer natural rainwater to tap water that is chemically-treated.

One turf is not like the other

Lawns can drink up a lot of water. Most xeric landscaping plans minimize the amount of turf in the landscape, replacing it with paths, patios, seating or entertaining areas or xeric beds. Determine the most drought-tolerant grass for your area (sun or shade). Grass should be mowed high, allowing longer blades to help protect the roots from the heat and to hold in moisture. Grass should be mowed when it is about 1/3 higher than you want it to be. Bermuda should be mowed at 1.5 to 2.5 inches, Buffalo Grass at 4 inches, and Zoysia at 2 inches.  Clippings left on the lawn help return nitrogen to the soil, so they don’t need to be collected.

Keep roots cool

Critical to plant survival, mulching beds helps insulate plants, keeping soil temperatures lower and cutting down on evaporation. There are a variety of good mulches from which to choose, including Native Texas Hardwood mulch, shredded cedar, pine needles or other shredded barks.  Several inches of mulch should be applied to ensure sufficient insulation.

Now, maintain it

Proper pruning, weeding and fertilizing helps keep your landscape healthy. Instead of chemicals that can contaminate our ground water, use organic fertilizers and pest control options to address problems that may arise in the garden. Check with local nurseries for good organic choices.

For more information, check out the City of Austin’s Grow Green Program – an extensive water-wise public education program. Grow Green offers an extensive selection of free gardening how-to materials throughout the Austin area. Local nurseries carry the program’s free fact sheets and the very popular Native and Adapted Plant Guide that includes 200 recommended plants that will thrive in Central Texas.

Local Landscape Designer and Garden Coach Diana Kirby provides landscaping tips at http:/www.dianasdesignsaustin.com and writes a garden blog at https://www.dianasdesignsaustin.com

By |2017-11-29T23:27:06-06:00July 26th, 2014|Articles|Comments Off on Xeriscaping the answer for drought defense
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Partner up colors in the garden

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color in the landscape

Color is the most conspicuous element in the landscape. It’s what others notice when they visit and it’s how we plan on our forays to local nurseries.  It sets the mood that permeates the landscape and often defines its purpose.

Everyone has a favorite color and certainly your garden should be a reflection of your taste and style. But putting together a pleasing and successful color palette challenges many a gardener. And, in spite of careful planning, sometimes volunteer plants pop up in places they weren’t planted or a perennial’s bloom isn’t what quite as it was advertised.

When the wrong colors meet up in the landscape, it’s sometimes enough to make you shield your eyes.

With a little careful planning, pruning and a color wheel, you can use color in your landscape to provide unity and set the mood in your outdoor haven.

colorwheelSir Isaac Newton developed the first circular diagram of colors – the color wheel – in 1666. His work on color theory provided a logical structure for the relationship between colors.

A successful grouping of colors creates harmony – a pleasing arrangement of landscaping plants.  It also affects how we view spatial relationships among colors.

Yellows, oranges and reds are defined as “warm” colors, whereas blues, purples and greens are considered “cool” colors. Warm colors pop out at you in the garden and sometimes feel closer than they are.  The cooler colors tend to recede and seem farther away in the landscape. For example, cool colors in a border around a small back yard can draw they eye back and make the space seem larger than it actually it.

Warm colors evoke an active, vibrant mood in the garden. Hues of blues have a more calming, peaceful effect. Interior designers often choose shades of blue for decorating bedrooms for the same reason. The palette in a garden can reveal volumes about the nature and style of its gardener.

There are many possible combinations of colors that make successful pairings or groupings when using the color wheel.

Complementary colors:  These simple combos create a vibrant look in the garden.  Complementary colors are those directly across from one another on the color wheel.  These combos are easy to work with when you’re planning your landscape if you remember that opposites attract.

Secondary colors:  These groupings are created by forming an equidistant triangle on the color wheel. However, not all three colors can be dominant.  One color should provide the focal point, allowing the other two to sing backup in the landscape.

Analogous colors:  These 3 colors appear directly next to each other on the wheel and are considered different hues in the same color families.  These pairings complement a monochromatic-style design.

Many more color theory combinations exist, these three are the most commonly used.

The most transient of the elements in the landscape, color wanes and evolves throughout the seasons. Brilliant foliage in spring and bright blooms in summer often recede in fall and winter to more muted tones. For an all-season garden, look at your beds with a critical eye in the off seasons as well. Consider the changing color palette and how you can add a few carefully selected plants to make your garden pop year-round.

Planning with these design simple guidelines will bring added depth and dimension to your landscape. It will allow your plants to stand out, showcased against neighboring plants of complementary colors and hues.

Local Landscape Designer and Garden Coach Diana Kirby provides landscaping tips at http:/www.dianasdesignsaustin.com and writes a garden blog at https://www.dianasdesignsaustin.com

By |2017-11-29T23:27:06-06:00June 28th, 2014|Articles|Comments Off on Partner up colors in the garden
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Add texture to garden with plants, trees, stones

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photo of fountain grasses in the landscape

The harsh winter has left many local gardeners with holes to fill in their landscapes. But instead of simply filling those holes with the same plants that didn’t make it through the cold, consider this as an opportunity to rethink your garden design.

On these beautiful, breezy days our local nurseries beckon with rows and rows of perfect plants waiting for a new home. So what should you plant?  After thinking about size, light and water needs, the next consideration, for most gardeners, is color. It is, after all, the most conspicuous element in the garden and it is the focus of most homeowners.

But I often find even colorful gardens in need of depth and dimension. Too many similar plants deprive the garden of relativity. The placement of contrasting plants is what allows each individual plant to stand out against the backdrop of its neighbors.

To achieve harmony and add interest to your garden this summer, consider the role of texture in your landscape. Texture is how coarse or fine the surface of plant or hardscape material feels and looks.

A broad range of plant textures will affect the overall balance in your garden, giving it context.  Mixing textures is important so you can tell where one plant or area begins and another ends. One of my favorite plant pairings is a large, structural agave next to soft, billowy feather grasses that move with the wind.

Texture also makes a garden more inviting. I never pass by lamb’s ear in a garden without reaching out to touch its soft, velvety leaves, and the gentle rustle of grassed and seed heads is music in the garden.

Some examples of plants with varying textures include:

Coarse:  Plants with large irregular leaves, thick veins, and rough bark.  In this category you would find plants like philodendron, agave, leather leaf mahonia, sea holly, acanthus, croton and canna.

Medium: These plants have mid-size leaves, a smooth shape, and generally include simple lines such as agapanthus, viburnum, ruellia, monarda, Turk’s cap and Jerusalem sage.

Fine: Defined by small or thin, strappy leaves, fine-textured plants include plants like grasses or things with a wispy, vining form such as Japanese Maple, society garlic, ferns, artemesia, guara, yarrow or damianita.

Texture isn’t limited to leaves of the plants in your garden. When the cold winter has sapped much of the color from your garden, the trees that form the framework for your landscape can also add wonderful texture to the garden. Exfoliating bark becomes a focal point against dried grasses and bare limbs. The sculptural style of crape myrtles, burr oaks or lace bark elms all adds interest to the garden.

Just as with color, the placement of texture in your landscape can create the illusion of depth and space. Placed in the foreground, large, bold foliage followed by smaller fine plants can elongate and extend the image of space in your garden. With smaller plants and textures up close and a perimeter with large plants can make a larger garden seem smaller and more inviting.

But your design planning doesn’t stop there. Hardscape has texture, too. All of the elements in your garden play into the vision of the garden as a whole.

Hardscape materials can be used to match the texture and style of your plants, or it can serve to provide some contrast and dimension for balance.

Examples of different hardscaping that add to the look and feel of our garden include:

Coarse: To add a strong element to the garden, use rough-cut, irregular or natural stone, rough-hewn cedar, large boulders, or any type of unfinished surface or fencing, allowed to weather.

Medium: Materials that can work either way in the landscape might include flagstone, polished wood or brushed concrete

Fine: To create a finer look, use small, smooth stones like pea gravel or river rock, or small-slatted wooden fencing or furniture or delicate metal trellises or arbors.

So walk through your garden this season with a more critical design eye and identify the textures in your garden. Think about how you can enhance your landscape with the addition of some carefully placed textural plants or hardscape that will add dimension. And on your next visit to your local nursery, don’t be afraid to touch and feel your way through the plants.

Local Landscape Designer and Garden Coach Diana Kirby provides landscaping tips at http:/www.dianasdesignsaustin.com and writes a garden blog at https://www.dianasdesignsaustin.com

By |2017-11-29T23:27:07-06:00May 24th, 2014|Articles|Comments Off on Add texture to garden with plants, trees, stones
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Escape in the garden

Gardening to destress or grow food has never been more important. Get my FREE Five Quick Container Tips to start your own restorative gardening project today. Hook me up now!

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